Dress, Live, Think, Be.: 2009 F/W Menswear in Paris

I'm glad cities like Milan and New York shows are before Paris because seeing the Paris shows after Milan is reassuring and my mind is open to inspiration.

In the spirit of my history class I enjoyed thinking of the references in the John Galliano's mens collection. Starting with colonial wigs and the colonial cut clothes that were quite literal for me, the show started off well and it was very easy to understand. Just when I thought I could predictthe next outfit, Fawn crept under the spotlight on the glittering floor. Mr.Galliano in my opinion, is humorous I can see. All of these in square toes military boots that almost changed my opinion of the square toe. Then Abe Lincoln, and a sporty moment that opened the eye to the bearing underwear and strangely... lingerie. But then some Victorian era coats and bow-tie/brooch things that really made my day. Weather they be brrochers or a tie around the neck, these pieces of tulle... never mind, I would explain it but you just wouldn't get it. But, in a nutshell, the entire concept of the show was developed around some very familiar staples and shapes, along with some familiar military coats and shapes that became even more understandable articulated by familiar suit fabrics and twill. This Galliano show was just as much of an escape as it was an experience that made me recognize and appreciate references of the clothes as they related to modern day clothing. The rest of Paris can kind of be seen the same way.

Raf Simons I have to say used to be one of my favorites. I had trained my eye to appreciate sculptural and geometric shapes in his unique way of playing shapes off of the body. However, he seems to have lost me a bit by boring me at the begging of his show. No doubt there are some qualities in that suit that set them apart but I feel like now I need more to look at to compel me to appreciate the clothes. That with the familiar suits that I see everyday walking city streets. But I saw a blue cuff peek from under a wool coat. I was intrigued. I'm glad I stuck around to see the half coats- I am sure they have a specific name for that type of coat, but I cannot think of the name of it right now- that created an ellipse of a shape on the shoulders. These looked like they could have been neoprene. Then the two toned jackets that could have easily reminded me of a varsity team jacket. But they were so very well tailored that I began to appreciate the familiarity of the shapes that were being created. Which made way for the breast-less cardigan that I feel like I would like right about now followed by the geometric shapes I talked about earlier. All together the collection was very well conceived and had some star pieces that I know I will see.

Then Rick Owens' collection that didn't make me feel very happy. Despite having some very masculine vibes throughout, the collection almost felt like it was recycled from Fall 2008 all with the knit nun hats and the exaggerated collars and leg consuming boots that are so well highlighted in some of the JAK&JIL BLOG posts. All of this along with the long and voluminous hair that gave the collection, what seemed to me as, a feminine tinge. Which eventually goes away and gives me the impression that Rick Owens' clothes are neither feminine or masculine. They kind of verge on the 3rd gender thing that Stefano Pilati talked about.

Cue video.

Stare in serene disbelief.
To watch that before seeing the actual clothes is to have felt the clothes themselves already. To have listened to the voice was to have ran your hands through the "crepe-de-chine," tested and felt every singe tread in the supple wool and noticed every crease and pucker created by the warmth of a body. But it was more feeling of the clothes themselves. The feeling of the fabric, punctuated by seams and treads. Clothes as a sexuality themselves. Lust in its most material form... Back to reality, the collection: Just as intimate. The black of the environment, the the black of the clothes, exaggerated by the different blacks. Then a burst of sobering cerulean, awaken the eyes to the tailoring. Asymetrical coats and wide leg... capris? An peacoat and a tuxedo jacket in one. The shaped not womanly, but chipping away from the masculine archetypal front. That collection was provoking to say the least, an almost ground breaking release.

Take a breath. CDG's girly flats, cowboy and leprechaun hats, Rei ushers in unconventional patterns to the familiar suit. Many of the same looks each witht he twist of the spirit that an pattern, fabric or a painting captures. Skirts! Suit Aprons! Clown Wigs! This Parisian fashion week the presence or man and woman visibly present, sometimes in one outfit catching your attention.

Then I saw glitter loafer/boots. Think about that for a second. GLITTER. But then a cape! A cape is all I want for next fall. a cape... Imagine me in a cape. A CAPE. enought of that. I like the presence of black models! Milan kind of ignored that whole diversifying issue. Givenchy (Gee-Vahn-chee) played the card well. The smart appealing that Paris designers are doing, I subscribe to it. I believe in it, and I think it will all work.