Things I don't Like: This season, I dont like...

This winter was all about the coat for me. More tailoring has been going into coats since a good deal of them have been inspired by the 60s and 70s. So my eye has been on them for a while now.

I really dislike it when people call a coat what it isn't. A Macintosh and a duffel/toggle coat are not called trenchcoats. A chesterfield coat is not a trenchcoat. A trenchcoat is a rain coat commonly with waxed cotton material that is designed to fend the body away from water. It is designed with a bit of militart influence, hence the epaulettes (the meaningless things on the shoulder reminicent of actual military coats where the shoulder of the coat expresses rank or position). Wool is not a water resistant material, but is found to be warm. Therefore, a trench coat could never be made out of wool because the purpose of a trenchcoat is to keep you dry, not nessecarily warm. There can certainly be wool coat with the same design qualities as trenchcoat. But to clear things up, I rushed and scanned a useful book I bought a while back.

From DETAILS Men's Style Manual by Daniel Peres

Now, everytime you get confused, look right here at these sloppily scanned images of all of these coats which all have very different names and uses.

The peacoat. I am so done and tired of the peacoat. I have seen so many people in that darn coat that it makes me literally sick to see them. The worst thing is that NO ONE DOES IT RIGHT. I'm sorry, the caps, they must show my frustration. The only way I like the peacoat is with the navy reference present in the coat. When I like the peacoat it is paired with white pants, skinny pants and a good shoe or with white shoes. And not many people can even pull THAT off. I feel that the peacoat is sort of strong reference to the navy. But nope, everyone has been selling them so everyone seems to have been selling them. No really. Everyone has subscribed to the peacoat. Oh you want examples? No. Look out of your window. There is someone for every 5 or 6 people you encounter who wears a peacoat.

Now, I felt very good about the peacoat in the past. During the fall and winter of 2007/8 the peacoat made its appearance and introduced the market to a nautical theme that would carry on into the summer of 2008. Remember the summer of 2008 was all about the boat shoe that was torn apart so many times to only be reassembled into the same thing for the likes of Sperry X Band of Outsiders to Lanvin. This Winter swung around and I would rather see the nautical navy theme change armed forces to the military with its high collared epaulette button bearing self. But... here I am being disgusted by the peacoat. Not all of you do it wrong... but a lot of you do.

Lastly...


The Cut Blog

I want Kenneth Cole to stop acting like someone really cares what he says. (Gosh, I'm angry)