Sartorial Philosophy.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Dior Homme avec Kris Van Assche

In some ways, I have a dislike of Kris Van Assche's work at Dior Homme. His aesthetic is almost extremely different than the silhouettes that were established under Hedi Slimane's inaugurating rule at Dior.

But don't get me wrong, it wasn't Hedi I liked, it was what Dior was before Kris. It was much more celebratory and rock inspired than anything I had ever known. At one point, I was excited to afford jeans and wear the accessories because each piece from Dior had a tailored streamlined feel that was consistent throughout the entire line. Things from Dior felt like they were going in an interesting direction. But as Hedi Slimane stepped down and became the photographer as we know him today, Kris Van Assche perpetuated his own ideas for Dior. As a result, Dior Homme's tailoring has taken on a different personality.

And it's not like I don't like loose clothes that relate to the body as Stefano Pilati so "sensually" did for Yves Saint Laurent. But for his latest offering for spring 2011, I'm skeptical.

Should I find myself in an casbah, I would love a good caftan under the Algerian sun. But the cut of Dior seems so off, I could probably replace this look with a good scrub.


I mean, am I wrong? I love the concept of this collection, but as far as the cuts and execution, I long for something more precise.


The day I become a designer, I will try to work cummerbunds into the mens casual wardrobe, but if this is a cummerbund, I am not convinced. But, otherwise, my issues with this collection end with some of the looks cut. These last looks hold the bar for me at Dior Homme.

All photos from Style.com

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