Sartorial Philosophy.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

So...

I was pouring over the Sartorialist thinking about how sad I was to have no one to talk about (high) fashion with. I saw this:


Now, I was thinking earlier about what new things could be introduced into fashion. At this point I would say nothing. The climate as I have calculated is not ready to exit the skinny legged silhouette. (Maybe this is how the 2000s will be defined? Cue Slimane reference.) I don't think that this would be acceptable at anytime in the near future and after looking at this I begin to like this less and less and less. The pants seem to have been borrowed from a newspaper boy from colonial times. I am not impressed with them.

But then Gianfranco Ferré showed its neck and impressed me. Aside from reminding me of this Fall's Dolce & Gabbana ad, this collection was very well put conceived from simply the color black. But more of those chunky knits that I could do without.




Gianfranco Ferré

Overall, the knits feel too familiar. I feel like I've identified these knits with this season too much and I haven't looked forward to seeing more of it. The shapes created because of them with GFF seem to work well. It impressed me because I wasn't expecting this from them. Thanks to Abdul Lagerfield a lá my Reader.

This season seemed to be all about the Chukka. Last summer was all about the boat shoe. With a new season comes a new trend and it its obviously going to be about the oxford. Everywhere I turn there's the deconstructed and even the traditional with a little added on. Prada has offered some for just the occasion for next Fall.


Prada

These fitting in nicely with the aesthetic of John Varvatos collection reminded me of why I identify with Alexander McQueen so much. John Varvados' man wore the clothes of the English rockers we've become very familiar with since the rise of Pete Doherdy. Who, from what I can tell, takes some cues from the McQueen man. I can't quite put my finger on the reference actually; but I really never disagree with the his collections. It always stays consistent and... well, I'll put it to words later. But I was impressed a lot, again.


Alexander McQueen


John Varvados
Images from the Sartorialist and men.style.com

Overall, I think the shows in Milan are leaning menswear in the darkest direction. Odd since I feel like I would like to see something a lot more bright. You know, due to the economy and all.

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